Tuesday, January 31, 2017
Countdown to Financial Fitness: Saving Money on Car Rentals
Countdown to Financial Fitness: Saving Money on Car Rentals: I just returned from a trip where we had to rent a car, which can be a transaction as complicated as doing taxes. We're not particularl...
Saving Money on Car Rentals
I just
returned from a trip where we had to rent a car, which can be a transaction as
complicated as doing taxes. We're not particularly brand-loyal. We shop around
online, inquire about any discounts we might be eligible for, and we usually
end up with a pretty good price.
Then
comes the upsell. First, they want to change you to a bigger car. From economy
to mid-size. Mid-size to full-size. Full-size to luxury. (Sometimes they're out
of your category, and they'll give you a free upgrade if you don't take their
offer to pay for one.) On this occasion, the counter agent said, "You're in
luck. I can put you in a Mercedes convertible." My husband said,
"Great. For the same price?" Well no, it was going to be about twice
what we'd been quoted for our full-size sedan. No thanks, we'll stick with the
Toyota Camry we reserved.
Do you
need a GPS? Just a couple more dollars a day. No, we'll use the GPS on our
phones, thank you. Car seat? No kids. Extra driver? Most companies don't charge
extra to add a spouse, but if you're renting with an unrelated person, make
sure you both plan to drive before adding this expense. I rented a car with two
friends once, and they wanted us to pay an extra $10 a day for each additional
driver. We did end up adding one extra driver, but we didn't need two.
Another
time we rented a car in New Mexico, and when the agent handed over the contract
for me to sign, I noticed the charges were higher than the quote I'd printed
out. I asked her why. "Your quote didn't include the emergency roadside
assistance. It's only two dollars a day, and everyone wants it." I had her
remove it, as I already have that coverage through AAA (American Automobile
Association).
Not
filling up the car before you return it can be costly, and you'll be warned of
this penalty at check-out. However, you may be offered the option of purchasing
a tank of gas in advance at a per-gallon price lower than what you'll see at the
pumps, and then returning the car empty. Only problem, you'll pay for the full
tank of gas even if you only use half or less. Don't fall for this add-on
unless you plan to drive far enough to burn through a whole tank and can
actually return the car on fumes.
Luckily,
the online quotes now list all the non-negotiable taxes and fees you'll be
charged. For our most recent rental, we paid sales tax, vehicle license
recovery, airport concession, and a California tourism fee. In the old days, when
we got a quote over the phone of a daily rate "plus tax," I was always
surprised at how much the bottom line increased by the time all those charges were
added.
And
then there's the insurance. A lot of agents ask questions like, "Do you
want full coverage, or just the basic?" My answer is usually,
"Neither."
The
most common "basic" coverage car rental companies offer is CDW
(Collision Damage Waiver) or LDW (Loss Damage Waiver). Adding this coverage can
increase the cost of your rental contract by 25-30%, but counter agents will
try to scare you into taking it, as otherwise, you are fully liable for theft
or any damage to the vehicle, regardless of who is at fault.
And
sometimes things happen. We've been fortunate in our travels so far, but we've
come close to disaster a few times. Once, in Hawaii, we were parked on a street
lined with palm trees. When we returned to our car, we noticed the car in front
of ours had a huge dent in its roof—damaged by a falling coconut! It could
just as easily have been us.
But if
you have collision and comprehensive coverage on your own automobiles, check
your insurance policy before you go, because there's a good chance you'll enjoy
the same coverage in a rental car. (Especially in the United States; check the
rules if you're renting a car in another country.) Also, many credit card
companies provide CDW/LDW at no charge if you use that card for the rental and
decline the car company's coverage. Check the fine print or call your credit
card issuer, and pay with the card that provides the best coverage.
Other
optional insurance you can buy includes personal accident insurance (covers
your medical costs resulting from an accident) and personal effects coverage (damage
or loss of personal property you place in the car). Again, check the coverage
you already have. If you're renting a car in the United States, chances are
your personal health insurance will cover your medical bills in case of an
accident. And the liability portion of your automobile insurance policy will cover those of
others who are injured. If you have homeowners or rental insurance, that policy
may cover your personal effects.
If
you're traveling abroad and are buying travel insurance for your vacation, it
might be cheaper to add coverage for car rentals to that policy than to
purchase the insurance separately from the rental car company. Do a little
research before you leave.
By all
means, don't put yourself at unnecessary risk. But you might be able to save
money by avoiding the purchase of duplicate coverage and options you don't
need.
What
tips do you have for saving on car rentals? I'd love to hear your comments.
Monday, January 23, 2017
Countdown to Financial Fitness: Do You Need an IRA? Traditional or Roth?
Countdown to Financial Fitness: Do You Need an IRA? Traditional or Roth?: While it's too late to max out your 401k account for 2016, it's not too late to open or fund an IRA (Individual Retirement Arrangem...
Do You Need an IRA? Traditional or Roth?
While
it's too late to max out your 401k account for 2016, it's not too late to open or fund
an IRA (Individual Retirement Arrangement). You have until April 17, 2017, to
designate a contribution for 2016. You can contribute up to $5500—or
$6500 if you're over age 50.
But if
you already have access to a workplace retirement plan, do you need an IRA? And
if so, should you fund a traditional IRA or a Roth?
That
depends.
Anyone
under age 70 1/2 with taxable compensation can contribute to a traditional IRA.
If you're not covered by a workplace retirement plan, you can deduct your IRA
contributions on your income tax return regardless of your income. Even if you
have a workplace plan, you can deduct your contributions provided your income is
under certain levels (depending on your filing status). If you don't qualify
for deductible contributions, you can still make nondeductible contributions. This means you don't get a tax deduction
in the year you fund the account, but when it comes time to withdraw the money,
you'll only owe taxes on any gains. You're required to start withdrawing the
money and paying the applicable taxes once you reach age 70 1/2 or you'll face
stiff penalties... basically, the government will take it if you don't.
A Roth
IRA is funded with after-tax money, but eligible withdrawals of contributions,
as well as gains, are not taxed. You can continue to contribute to your Roth
account at any age, as long as you meet the income requirements, and there's no
minimum distribution rule for the original owner (i.e., as long as it's
not a Roth account you inherited). To be eligible to contribute to a Roth, your
modified adjusted gross income must be below certain amounts (depending on
filing status). But since 2010, there's a loophole in the law that allows
anyone, regardless of income, to convert a traditional IRA to a Roth after
paying the applicable taxes.
If you
don't qualify for a tax deduction for a contribution to a traditional IRA, but
you do meet the income eligibility requirements for a Roth, it's a no-brainer.
Go for the Roth. Otherwise, you have a decision to make: is it better to pay
the taxes now or later? Do you think you'll be in a higher or lower tax bracket
after you retire and begin making withdrawals? Many people believe taxes can
only go up and thus, the Roth contribution or Roth conversion is the better
move. But your situation could be different.
A
financial planner once told me I was being irresponsible by maxing out my tax-deductible
401k account, that I should have made Roth contributions instead. One argument he gave
is that a large traditional retirement plan can leave an unwanted tax burden on
your heirs, whereas with a Roth, the tax has already been paid for them. But
because I don't have children, my beneficiary will most likely be a charity,
and the charity won't have to pay income taxes regardless of what type of
account they inherit. However, if one of your financial goals is to leave a legacy
for your heirs, consider a Roth. In fact, many 401k plans are now offering a
Roth option, so workers can contribute after-tax money instead of the
traditional pre-tax contributions.
I
prefer to hedge my bets, so I have pre-tax 401k money (which since my
retirement, has been rolled into a traditional IRA), as well as Roth accounts.
I really don't know what my tax situation will be later, or how the tax laws
will change.
If you
can spare the money to contribute to both a workplace plan and an outside IRA,
by all means, do both. If you can't max out both, I suggest contributing to
your workplace plan at least up to any employer match (to do less is leaving
free money on the table) and then putting additional money into a Roth IRA at a
discount brokerage such as Fidelity, Vanguard, Schwab, etc., if you qualify. A
large discount brokerage will most likely offer access to more diverse
investment products than your workplace plan.
Whatever
you decide, even if it turns out not to be the ideal choice, contributing
something is better than contributing nothing. If you put away as much as you
can whenever you're able, you'll increase your chances for a comfortable
retirement.
What
tips do you have for retirement contributions? I'd love to hear your comments.
Tuesday, January 17, 2017
Writers Who Kill: Out-of-the Box Marketing, by Sharon Marchisello
Writers Who Kill: Out-of-the Box Marketing, by Sharon Marchisello: So many books are published every year, and when you're an unknown author, it's hard to get noticed. If you ...
Countdown to Financial Fitness: Shrink Your Financial Footprint
Countdown to Financial Fitness: Shrink Your Financial Footprint: In my personal finance e-book, Live Cheaply, Be Happy, Grow Wealthy , I often refer to "shrinking your financial footprint" as a ...
Shrink Your Financial Footprint
In my
personal finance e-book, Live Cheaply, Be
Happy, Grow Wealthy, I often refer to "shrinking your financial
footprint" as a way to build wealth more easily. Although I didn't make it
up, the term "financial footprint" is not widely used, so I'll offer
my interpretation.
We all
leave footprints during our brief stay on earth. You've probably heard a lot
about "your carbon footprint" which is related to how much energy you consume. The larger your carbon
footprint, the more natural resources are required to sustain your existence.
We're all encouraged to shrink our carbon footprints in an effort to preserve
our environment.
Your
financial footprint is how much money
you need to fuel your lifestyle. The smaller your financial footprint, the
fewer financial resources you'll require to lead a satisfying life. The less
money you need to sustain your daily existence and pay for the things and
experiences you value, the more you'll preserve to build wealth, which you can
use to further enrich your life, and to support causes you care about.
The two footprints can be
somewhat related. For example, someone who drives a gas-guzzling sports car
will probably have a larger carbon footprint than a person with a
well-maintained compact. And probably a larger financial footprint as well. The
extra money spent on premium gas and higher insurance bills won't be going into
the retirement fund or toward the kids' college education.
But maybe you want more than
just basic transportation from point A to point B? Your vehicle is an
expression of your personality, and driving that gas-guzzling sports car
fulfills a dream. Fine. There may be other areas in your life where you don't
mind scrimping in order to shrink your overall financial footprint. Like
turning down your thermostat in winter. Boxing up your leftovers and stretching
them into another meal. Resisting the urge to upgrade every time a new iPhone
comes out. Packing washable clothes that mix and match so you can travel with
only one roll-aboard.
There
is a certain satisfaction in living within a smaller financial footprint. But
you have to adjust your attitude to be happy with less baggage, to find joy in
things and experiences that don't cost a lot of money. You have to stop
worrying about impressing others with your consumption. Separate value from
cost.
Once
you get in the habit of shrinking your financial footprint, you'll feel less
like the fat person, overstuffed from the all-you-can-eat buffet, and more like
the trim person, invigorated after a bit of exercise and a nourishing meal of
healthy-size portions.
What
tips do you have for shrinking your financial footprint? I'd love to hear your
comments.
Sunday, January 1, 2017
Countdown to Financial Fitness: New Year's Resolutions You Can Keep
Countdown to Financial Fitness: New Year's Resolutions You Can Keep: Most New Year's Resolutions are abandoned within the first month. Some people don't even bother to make them anymore. One reaso...
New Year's Resolutions You Can Keep
Most New Year's Resolutions are abandoned within the first
month. Some people don't even bother to make them anymore.
One reason resolutions are hard to keep is that they are
often unrealistic. Overnight, we vow to forsake our old ways and become
perfect. It's hard to suddenly break habits we've formed over a lifetime.
Crash diets don't work because you're asking yourself to
adopt a behavior that is unsustainable, and even unhealthy. As soon as you meet
your goal, provided you make it, you'll go back to the same eating patterns
that made you fat in the first place, and the pounds will pile back on. For a
weight-loss plan to be successful, you have to permanently change your eating
and exercise habits. The best way to do this is gradually, taking small,
manageable steps.
The same goes for achieving financial goals. If you instantly
try to impose an austerity program on a spendthrift, you're setting yourself up
for failure.
Set reasonable expectations. For example, if you've
identified eating lunch out daily as an area where you can cut expenses,
instead of promising to start taking your lunch to work every day from now on,
set a goal of brown-bagging it several times a week. Make lunching out a
special treat, rather than a necessary errand to grab something to fill the
void.
If you're not maxing out your retirement accounts and
building a healthy retirement fund is important to you, try increasing your
contributions by a few percentage points at first. (Or put that money you're
saving from not going out to lunch as often into an IRA.)
If you're teetering on the edge of bankruptcy and you've
resolved to get completely out of debt in 2017, that goal might be a bit
ambitious. Why not plan to pay more than the minimum payment each month, stop
accruing additional debt, or pay off one credit card within a
specified amount of time? (And apply that money you're saving on lunches out to
reducing your debt.)
Before you make your resolutions, establish some long-term,
big-picture goals. What do you want your financial future to look like, and
why? What will it take to get there? How do you want to feel when you've reached
those goals?
Next, write down reasonable resolutions that take you toward
these goals, tell a trusted friend or family member willing to hold you
accountable, and get started. If you falter, don't give up. Just like it
wouldn't make sense to throw in the towel on a diet because you overate at a
party, don't abandon your financial goals because you overspent on a shopping
spree or missed a payment. Forgive yourself and get back on track. When you do make
some progress, celebrate your success, and then keep going.
What
resolutions have you made for 2017? What tips do you have for keeping them?
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